TAKING THE BITE OUT OF 

STRESS RELATED AGGRESSION

Understanding your dog’s emotional needs is just as important as nutrition and training 

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True canine aggression is rarer than you think. More often it’s caused by stressors in your dog’s life (or yours), that have gone unrecognised.

• Fear is an emotional response that happens when an animal feels they are in danger.

• Anxiety is the anticipation of future danger, whether it’s real or not. Fear and anxiety both lead to stress and cause the release of stress hormones.

• Stress is mental or emotional strain resulting from tense circumstances. It can happen as a result of a single event or it can develop over a period of time when a dog is subject to several continual background stressors.

• Phobias are recurring fears of certain objects or situations, out of proportion to the actual threat. Like us dogs have phobias too. Most fears, phobias and anxieties in dogs develop at the onset of social maturity (1 to 3 years). And, like us, some dogs are more prone to fear and anxiety due to their genetic makeup.

• Reactivity is a state of high arousal usually leading to aggression. Dogs will challenge one another for a number of reasons, one reason is that while on leash they are not able to initiate the normal canine greeting protocols, specific to their own species. Unfixed adolescent dogs are also more likely to challenge one another. As fully functioning reproductive creatures their hormones drive them to set out from home, find a mate and defend their territory.

Do the checklist. How much is your dog coping with on a daily basis?

• Too much play and the inability to avoid the stimulation
• Too much boredom
• Grief (loss of companion, human or canine)
• Discord in the home, where arguing or yelling occurs
• Too many dogs in a small space
• New home and/or a change of schedule
• Harsh and severe training methods
• Lack of social time with family
• Loud noises
• Lack of a predictable routine
• Separation anxiety - not accustomed to being on their own for a short period of time

Pay particular attention when your dog is exposed to negative experiences that occur repeatedly

Trigger stacking is an emotional response that happens when a dog is exposed to a single stressor he can’t get away from or when he’s exposed to continual low level, background stressors which eventually lead him to suddenly act out. Trigger stacking causes the build up of cortisol in a dog’s blood which is a stress hormone playing a key role in aggression. Cortisol lasts at least two days in a dogs system after a stressful event so if the dog is under continual levels of stress, even low levels of stress, it will be more prone to aggression.

Understand the “Red and Yellow Zones” so you can avoid them

Dr. Ian Dunbar’s bite hierarchy - identifying the severity of dog’s bite history
(Beware of the Dog - Positive Solutions for Aggressive Behavior in Dogs, Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA)

Level 1: Barking and growling but no skin contact

Level 2: Tooth contact on skin but no puncture

Level 3: Skin punctures; one to four holes from a single bite (shallow in depth)

Level 4: One to four holes, deep black bruising with punctures deeper than length of dog’s canine teeth (dog bit and clamped down), or slashes in both directions from puncture (dog bit and shook head)

Level 5: Multiple bite attack with deep punctures, or multiple attack incident

Level 6: Killed victim and/or consumed flesh


Other reasons why dogs bite and how to deal with the warning signs

Startle Response: A dog may bite if you wake him suddenly, causing him to react defensively before he’s fully aware of what’s happening.

Not heeding a dog’s warning: Dog’s will usually give clear warning that they’re uncomfortable with a situation. Don’t punish the dog for growling. It will only make him worse in future situations. Respect his warning. Give him the space he needs and/or remove him from the area. If you punish a dog for growling, you're actually teaching him to skip the growling and go right to bite mode the next time.

Resource guarding: Though not pleasant, resource guarding is normal dog behavior. The best way to minimize it is to allow the dog some space. Allow the dog some privacy while eating or enjoying a chew treat. If the dog has claimed your sock or shoe as her own, offer an object or treat she’s allowed to have, while verbalizing the “leave it” command. Try to make it a win/win situation so the dog will be trusting in the future when it comes to what she can and can’t have. Power struggles with your dog over an object only teaches her that she cannot trust you and she will guard objects even more the next time.

Barking or growling: Don’t attempt to hold a dog’s mouth closed if they bark or growl. This only adds to the dog’s stress level. You may have stopped the dog in that moment but you’ve created a more intense stress response for future situations. Distance and redirection is the best solution, get some distance between your dog and what causing his arousal reaction.

Sometimes biting is not aggression

Puppy nipping: Between the ages of three and six months, puppies rely heavily on their mouths to experience the world. At four months they start losing their baby teeth and chewing also becomes a way to sooth their gums. By the time all the puppy’s adult teeth come in, usually by six months, this behavior greatly diminishes. Until then practice a lot of redirection and ensure your puppy is not getting overstimulated during play.

Survival tips for getting through this phase

• Always provide plenty of chewing items puppy can have and offer if they start using you as a pacifier.
• Putting some of their rubber toys in the freezer and then providing to them, will help sooth irritated gums.
• If they are getting too rambunctious, crate them for 5 or 10 minutes, to allow them to settle down.
• A firm “Ahhh-Ahhh” and removing yourself from the area, should be your warning that enough’s enough, so use it.
• Do not allow children to run in the house. It triggers jumping and nipping in puppies.

A quick note about herding breeds

Herding breeds are genetically wired to herd. They have little patience for sitting and affection and would much prefer to spend their time on the move. They’re more likely to nip at heels and the backs of your legs due to their genetic tendency to herd movement. They are also triggered by movement so you need to watch them around running children, cyclists and joggers. When this kind of nipping occurs work on redirecting them with a toy and/or removing them from an overstimulating situation. Herding breeds require a high level of cognitive stimulation so boredom can be a big stressor if not remedied, often leading to excessive barking and obsessive behaviors.

Canine stress busters

• Effectively coping with your own stress
• Increasing your dog's daily exercise
• Ensuring her daily routine is consistent and highly predictable
• Relieving her boredom by putting her to work, especially herding or hunting breeds

Check THE DOG BLOG once a month for more tips on training and canine well being.

MANAGING MOTIVATION 

Training is not about how to control your dog. It is about controlling  what motivates your dog.

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No living creature does something for nothing, especially not something that does not come naturally. 

Would you go to work if there was no pay cheque at the end of the week? Would you participate in an activity someone else was telling you to do, that you would not naturally have considered and initially found difficult to understand? It’s what you’re asking of your dog when it comes to training so you’d better make it worth his while, at least in the initial stages of learning something new.

So what gets your dog all fired up and ready to work?

The best way to get a dog invested in your training plans is to make it fun according to what your dog perceives as fun ─ to do this you have to tune in to what he's going to find instinctively motivating.

What does your dog enjoy?

We’ll call this the “reinforcer”. It could be food, toys, going for a walk, sniffing scents, stealing socks, finding a way up to the table to scrounge for leftovers, unrolling the toilet paper all the way down the hall, chewing up shoes (what your dog enjoys is not necessarily what you're going to find amusing), and praise. I’m not saying the sock stealing or shoe chewing should be encouraged. The idea is to tune in to what motivates your dog (sniffing, chewing, food, treasure hunting, etc.) and channelling these natural behaviours into activities you do find useful and amusing.

You’ll notice I’ve listed praise last. As much as we would prefer our dogs to work exclusively for praise, it really doesn’t rank all that high as an effective motivator, not on its own. Praise is important to build trust and to convey to your dog he has successfully provided the behaviour you’ve asked of him. It should however, be paired with a higher ranking reinforcer. In addition, praise will rank a little higher or lower depending on your dog’s breed.

In my time as a dog trainer, I’ve been told on more than one occasion that an owner’s dog is not motivated by food, only to have the dog leap to attention when I bring out the cooked stewing beef. Choice of food matters too. Dogs can tire of “sameness” just as we can.

Here's an example of shaping a dog's natural behaviour

As a puppy my Jack Russell Terrier, Sadie, loved to steal socks. She was small and fast and I got tired of chasing her. I also got tired of buying new socks so instead of trying to train this natural inclination out of existence, I shaped the “Drop it” command so she could still acquire the socks but would have to drop them at my feet rather than destroying them, for a treat pay off. I considered it a win/win situation since the sock collecting saved me time and energy in rooting them out myself on laundry day and my task motivated pup was allowed to continue the game she loved so much (how you want to handle shoes is up to you). 

Restricting your dog’s access to top reinforcers

If your dog finds a specific toy particularly appealing, restrict his access to it. Keep it only for training. If the reinforcer is a specific food, keep that food only for training. Note also that training reinforcers (treats) should not be bigger than the end of a pencil eraser. 

Controlling the reinforcers

Simple reinforcers like food or toys are easy to control because you can offer or withhold them.

Complex reinforcers (an activity a dog is naturally drawn to) like sniffing, is harder to control. If you feel you spend too much time waiting for your dog to stop sniffing, put the activity on cue. You can do this by shortening her leash. And don’t make this a tug of war. Just stop and wait while she pulls toward an area you know she wants to sniff, wait for her to look back at you. When she does, tell her to “go sniff” and lengthen her leash to allow her to do so. Work this into your walking routine and over a period of time, she’ll wait for the “cue” which allows her to go sniff. 

Obviously, you have to allow these natural inclinations at non-structured times like off leash time in the backyard. Be a good coach by being fair.

You can use this technique for a number of activities. If you train your dog to perform an activity on cue, over time they tend to engage in those activities only when given the cue from you. 

I tested this theory with my own dog, Sadie (the sock thief), who, as an adult, would kick up a fuss by barking and growling whenever someone exited or entered the house by the front door. For years I’d managed the trigger by sending her into the bathroom until all the front door activity had ceased. 

Now, instead of banning her to another room for those few moments, I just tell her to “Speak” when she goes for the front entrance, and very quickly she makes a 90 degree turn away from the door, and heads toward me. This is a new cue so she’s still getting a food reinforcer but eventually I will fade the lure out completely. Yesterday she surprised me as my husband was leaving for work, by coming right to me without any front door fuss at all. It just goes to show you that old dogs can learn new tricks (myself included). Sadie’s 12 and she’s just as trainable now as she was in the earlier years. Maybe more so.

Check THE DOG BLOG once a month for more great stories and training tips.

THE FOX TAPEWORM

 AN EMERGING HEALTH THREAT FOR CANADIANS

 

Fox Tapeworm Echinococcus multilocularis, next to a paperclip (photo by Brent Wagner).

Magnified view on the right

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Keeping ourselves and our pets safe by changing our lifestyle

What is the Fox Tapeworm?

Echinococcus multilocularis is a tiny creature (3-6mm long) inhabiting the intestines of infected canines like coyotes and foxes, and existing as a relatively harmless lodger. If however, a dog owner becomes infected via activity with an infected dog or the handling of infected scat, the parasite sets up shop in the human intestine but soon moves on to other internal organs. While still considered rare, people with low immunity are at greater risk and the number of people infected is rising. Four people in Alberta have been diagnosed with Echinococcus multilocularis in the last four years. Before that, the only previous case in Canada happened in Manitoba in 1928 along with a case in Minnesota U.S., in 1976.

How did it come to Canada?

Research has confirmed that the latest wave of this tapeworm comes from Europe. How it got here is not certain. Along with Alberta this version of the parasite has been found in Ontario wildlife and has likely been present in the region for decades.

In European wildlife it’s only found in the intestines of foxes. In the less virulent North American strain it occurs in the intestines of both foxes and coyotes.

How did it enter Ontario?

Current theory is that the parasite may have come in from Michigan, and may also have come in with those dogs imported from central parts of Europe, especially Switzerland. There are currently no rules for screening or deworming protocols in place for imported dogs.

How is it transmitted?

Humans can be exposed in two ways: By eating foods grown at ground level such as carrots that have been exposed to infected canine feces, or when exposed to microscopic traces of infected dog feces in pet fur; if the dog hunts rodents – if that dog is petted and then the person touches their mouth or food, the parasite’s eggs are ingested. Fox tapeworm eggs can survive months to years in the environment. Dogs pick up the lethal form of this disease by eating coyote, fox or wolf scat (eventually colonies will migrate to the liver and other organs). Dog get the intestinal version when they eat infected rodents (harmless to a dog but dangerous for us).         

How to protect yourself and your dog

• Break the habit of allowing your dog to lick the plates

• Never allow your dog to lick your face or mouth. Enforce the same rule with the kids        

• Always wear gloves when gardening

• Always wash fresh produce from either the garden or the store, thoroughly. Experts list E. multilocularis as one of the top three food-transmitted parasites, worldwide

• Wash your hands after handling dogs, especially dogs you don’t know. Wash the good old fashioned way, hot soap  and running water. Hand sanitizers are ineffective against most parasites

• Think about alternate sleeping arrangements for your dog instead of in your bed

• Wash your hands after scooping up poop

• Wash your hands before you eat

• Avoid dog parks where dog, fox, coyote and rodent feces abound. E. multilocularis has recently been detected in Calgary dog parks

• Have your dog wormed on a regular basis (this is a conversation we should all be having with our vet) and be sure the worming medication is specifically formulated for the prevention of this kind of tapeworm. This is crucial for dogs that are free roaming on property with access to rodents, coyotes, foxes and their feces.

Is there a cure?

Dogs: The intestinal strain can be eradicated by a proper worming with the right kind of medication. The liver version is deadly. Even with surgery and treatment the survival rate is low and probably unaffordable for most of us since the dog would have to remain on anti-parasitic medication for the rest of its life.

Humans: The parasite soon shows up as lumps on the liver – Humans exposed to the parasite should get treatment immediately. The problem is that the parasite grows slowly, and usually does not cause symptoms right away. Left untreated, it spreads to other parts of the body. If treated when it’s localized a surgeon can remove the whole infected area while prescribing several months of post-operative anti-parasitic drugs.

If Echinococcus multilocularis has spread too far in the liver or moved to other internal organs the infected person would need to remain on anti-parasitic drugs for the rest of their life. Only about a third of patients are alerted to the problem by pain and in two thirds of cases, by the time it’s found, surgery is no longer an option. A mass in the liver is identified through an ultrasound or CT scan. If left untreated, the parasite will kill its human host in 10 to 15 years.

Check THE DOG BLOG once a month for more great stories and training tips.

"WATCH ME" 

Teaching your dog the “Watch Me” command, is a foundation behaviour that should be taught right from the start.

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It’s simple, gain your dog’s attention by placing a small treat between two fingers and literally lure his gaze up to your eye. When he looks at you, reward him with the treat and praise. Repeat a few times a day, in the early days until you have quick and solid consistency. Over time you can fade out the treat while keeping the hand and verbal cue, and increasing duration of eye contact.

Dogs have been shaped by their relationship with humans over the past 33,000 years to be able to tune in and actually use human communication skills, the way that so many other animals cannot. Dogs are more adept at understanding our pointing gestures and gaze directional signals, than our closest primate relative the chimpanzee; and their own canis relative, the wolf. Dogs will usually attempt to make eye contact with humans to solve a problem if they can’t solve it on their own. Captive wolves will not.

Over the past 33,000 years domestication has also reshaped the facial muscles of dogs to better facilitate communication between our two species. Research indicates that the levator anguli oculi medialis muscles (responsible for intensely raising the inner eyebrow), is consistently present in dogs but not in wolves. Using them creates an expression we humans produce when sad. You know what I’m talking about “those puppy dog eyes,” so successful at triggering a nurturing response in humans. It extends a dog’s range of expression in a way that wolves physically cannot duplicate.

So teaching your dog to look at your face and watch you, is a skill they are predisposed to learn and use. This communication training can and should be started as early as 6 to 8 weeks, or at least very soon after you adopt your puppy. Its use should be instilled even before your dog learns to sit, stay or lie down. What’s the point of teaching anything else to your dog if she hasn’t yet developed the communication tools to watch and listen to you? It’s best taught to dogs as puppies but dogs of any age can learn this skill. Success with "watch me" will improve their recall, responsiveness to commands and decrease their susceptibility to distraction.

Encouraging and developing eye contact also helps your dog to know when communication is directed at him, separating it from the background noise of casual human chatter. A dog's motivation to establish eye contact is also a good indicator of just how well he's bonded with you.

Check The Dog Blog once a month for more great dog stories and training tips.

SKY'S STORY

TRAINING IS YOUR BACKUP LEASH

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Meet SKY, my smart, funny, irrepressible Jack Russell Terrier. Her favorite toys are her long stuffed wiener dogs, dirty socks, and tennis balls which I have to hide in the freezer. She seems to have the will and the wiring of a heat-seeking missile when it comes to finding things.

Sky's going on 12 now and I’ve had the immense joy and privilege of spending these past years with her. If you’ve got a dog then I’m sure he or she counts, along with your family, as one of the great loves of your life. In one way though, I can’t help but feel my little friend and I have lived those years on stolen time. This story, Sky's story, had a lot to do with my decision to become a dog trainer.

I never thought very much about training when Sky first came to live with me. To be honest, as with so many of us, I never really thought too much about the real hard questions of dog ownership at all, like what kind of dog is right for a family of four with two older children, in a townhome. Back in 2006, my daughter was begging for a dog (she’d been begging for months) and I finally relented by responding to a “Puppies for Sale” ad, pegged to the bulletin board of the nearest supermarket. I called—yes they still had some puppies, and yes we could come and see them that afternoon.

The breeder recommended training which seemed rather generic advice, as generic as her contract and exchange of money for goods. Still, a few months went by and I thought it might be fun so I signed us up. I was working full-time so I confess, sticking to Sky’s homework was, at best, sporadic but we did learn some basic cues. Eventually attending classes fell by the wayside as things do when you’ve got work and kids and a house to attend to, not to mention other bills to pay.

My whole perspective on the importance of training shifted though, one warm spring morning as my daughter and I were out walking Sky. We thought some window shopping would serve so we took her downtown. We were just passing some stores when a large group of people and their dogs, turned a corner from one of the side streets. As they approached us Sky panicked. She dove beneath a table by an outdoor cafe, her leash tangled in the chair legs and she slipped backward, right out of her harness. Her next move was to launch herself headfirst into traffic.

At that moment, I could only do what she and I had been trained to do. “DOWN!” I shouted, an instinctual response, more like muscle memory than anything else.

And miraculously, she did. Sky responded in the only way she knew, what she’d been trained to do, dropping into a down, right there on the edge of the sidewalk. Right on the very edge of oblivion—just long enough for my daughter to get her harness back on. Ironically several other dogs had dropped into a down as well, which I can laugh about now but maybe couldn’t fully appreciate at the time.

It was then that I realized just how important her training had been and how every penny spent on training was an investment in our years together. Not long after that fateful day, I signed her up for two more training packages and I was a lot more diligent about our homework.

Do you think you will always be in full control just because your dog is on a leash? Dogs can slip their harness, dogs can pull a leash from your hand. Invest in some training with your new pup because one day, it could save a life.

Sky’s story is the introductory post for The Dog Blog. Check my website once a month for more great dog stories and training tips.